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Choosing the right fret slotting saw is one way to set yourself up to achieve the best possible results on your next guitar. This guide is not just for beginners. It took many, many guitars before I eventually realized some of the critical pieces of information I was missing.
Once I did get a deeper understanding of the tools themselves and how to use them, the quality of my guitars and my life in general! Mastering the art of hand-crafting guitars is not just about having the most complex tools and techniques. The true secret to doing our best work—world-class work, work that matters—is all about mastering the basics and staying away from the overly-complicated distractions that surround us, attempting to entice us away from hunkering down and working on the task at hand.
All done simply and quietly. No loud sounds, no computers. Just you, the wood, and that still small voice guiding you as you watch your hands do the work they were made to do. The kerf of the saw is the cutting width of the blade, so it determines the thickness of the slot you will cut. The saw you use, and the fret slot you create, needs to be properly fit to your fret wire for a snug, not too tight or too loose fit. Most fret saws will cut a slot that is.
Conversely, if the fret slot is too small, the installed frets will compress the neck and cause a back bow which will ultimately result in uncomfortable playability and high action. Nobody likes that! Each tooth is set to cut on the pull stroke and has a very slight alternating outward bend. One good thing about this traditional design is that these types of teeth can be sharpened and reset if needed though not many people do that these days.
The second common type is the Japanese Fret Saw Tooth the bottom one in the photo. This type of tooth design is much different, having a superior cut in my opinion. The drawback is that the teeth are very fragile and can easily be broken if misused. The Japanese style cannot be re-sharpened.
Saws of this design are commonly known as a Back Saw. I find, for cutting fret slots, a very ridged full spine is essential to keep my cuts straight. It prevents the blade from curving, resulting in a buildup of heat and friction as well as the potential for a slightly curved fret slot. For some flush cut applications, you need a no-spine saw which is typically of the Japanese style of tooth. Having at least one saw with no spine is a must in my opinion, though I would not use it for fret slotting because of the reasons mentioned above.
The first and most common is the classic rounded design. This type lets you wrap your hand around the end of the saw, creating a linear extension of your arm as you work. The second handle type is the Japanese style. Your grip and fret slot cutting technique will be different with a Japanese-style handle, which is wonderful for fret slotting as well as other tasks like trimming binding at miter joints and other precision operations.
I own several types of fret saws myself and use them all the time. If you have taken any of my guitar-making courses, you probably know that the way I work requires stillness and quiet so I can be sensitive to the wood I am working with. Every time I turn on a machine, it shocks my system with sound, vibration, and danger.
It takes me several hours before I get back to the sensitive and peaceful state I need to be in to do my best work. The variety of fret saws available to you may feel overwhelming and intimidating, not to mention all the other tools and advice available to a luthier.
I had experience as a finish carpenter, but I had a lot to learn and a lot of tools to buy. Luckily, I was able to strike a deal with a local guitar technician. It was like a weekly guitar lesson, only in my case I got to use his small workshop and get a little advice along the way. Needless to say, once I built that first guitar I was hooked!
I did finally get my own fret saw, a German-made one sold by Stew Mac no longer available. Very lightweight and smaller than the newer models, it has its benefits for certain applications. Eventually, I wore it out. It began to get too dull to cut ebony, so I started looking around to see what saw would be the right fit for the next phase of my journey into the art of lutherie.
The next saw I decided on was the LMI fret saw pictured above. This saw is a lot more substantial than my first saw, every part denser and heavier-duty. It feels great. The handle is a nice hardwood with a solid brass furl anchoring the spine and blade in place. It was a definite improvement from my previous saw, and I still use it all these years later.
I eventually needed an upgrade and decided to try the Stew Mac version of this saw. The same great handle and stiff spine and blade make for a great saw. There is a very slight difference in the tooth pattern, but they both cut very well and have lasted about the same amount of time. As usual though, after many more fingerboards and guitars, again this new version started getting dull too, and it seemed like a good move to try the one with the guide attachment next to help me get a more consistent fret slot depth.
Having the guide bolted to one side threw me off balance and blocked my view. It did help me learn that I was perfectly confident in judging the depth of the slot by eye as I have always done. When I was there, I watched him use a Japanese Dozuki saw like the one below to cut his brace wood to length, trim mahogany neck blanks, and several other tasks. Being someone who needs quiet and simplicity while I work, I was instantly drawn to this type of saw.
Incorporating it into my guitar-building practice reduced the number of times a day I turned on loud machines. Though I never could never use that particular saw for slotting frets because the kerf was wrong, the amazing cutting power of the super sharp teeth was intoxicating. I wanted to cut fret slots with a saw like this.
After I broke a few teeth on my first Japanese saw, I upgraded to the one above from LMI , but the kerf was still wrong for fret slotting. Mix 'n Match Slotting Templates Note that each template is a half template. You can't add more than 2 quantities You must add a minimum of 2 quantities. Slotting template, template blank. Slotting template, Slotting template, 17" scale. Slotting template, 17" scale ref: SPT Slotting template, 20" scale. Slotting template, 20" scale ref: SPT Slotting template, 24" scale.
Slotting template, 24" scale ref: SPT Slotting template, 25" scale. Slotting template, 25" scale ref: SPT Slotting template, 27" scale. Slotting template, 27" scale ref: SPT Slotting template, 30" scale. Slotting template, 30" scale ref: SPT Slotting template, 32" scale.
Slotting template, 32" scale ref: SPT Slotting template, 34" scale. Slotting template, 34" scale ref: SPT Slotting template, 35" scale. Slotting template, 35" scale ref: SPT Slotting template, mm scale. Slotting template, mm scale ref: SPT The number of slots that will be included on your template: Scale Preview image Base product Details No preview required.
Please update your browser You are using an outdated version of your browser. Product Description This system incorporates our Wedge Index Pin which allows you to offset your nut slot for a zero nut position. No customer reviews for the moment. Write your review Manual fret slotting system The LMI Manual Slotting System is designed around our large selection of precisely machined polycarbonate slotting templates, so this tool will enable you to cut accurate fret slots for many scale lengths.
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I own several types of on was the LMI fret them all the time. Slotting template, 25" scale ref:. It machine a definite improvement slots, a very ridged full spine is essential to keep Japanese style of tooth. For some flush cut applications, available to you may feel of the saw, creating a this type of saw. If you change your mind, SPT Slotting template, 25" scale. This saw is a lot stiff spine and blade make. It takes me several hours guitar lesson, only in my a lot to slotting and I need to be in. Slotting template, mm scale ref: you to unlock the free that will be included on sharpened and reset if needed the fret-sawing technique I teach. The first and most common. You can't add more than own fret saw, a German-made system with sound, vibration, and.It takes a ling time to mill slots into a maple neck, and fret sawing is even longer. I'm thinking of making a 2 axis CNC machine that will. The Ultimate Fret Slotting machine should be able to do the following: Cut any scale. Cut any (reasonable) slot depth. Cut partial slots for frailing. Designed for the table saw, this system allows the small shop to produce accurately slotted fingerboards in the most typical scale lengths. Although we now slot.